The tint will obscure the wood grain some, but since it’s a surface finish, it won’t absorb unevenly into the wood like penetrating stain can. If you're using the Minwax Polyshades product or something similar, you don't need to use a clear poly finish afterwards, as the product is a mix of both stain and polyurethane. Scuff up the poly with the 80 grit, slop on some stripper and keep it wet until the poly wrinkles or starts to slough off. Use Wipe-On Poly for Small or Tight Areas. Or try the rattle cans. You need to be careful how you apply this because each coat you put on will make the project darker. Now I’m a little bit of a control freak when it comes to stain, and like to be able to adjust my stain as I go, so I normally turn to stain first, and then top coat when I’m absolutely … Poly can be sprayed but needs thinned, not sure what thinning and spraying would do for the stain. You may apply the Minwax Water Based Polyurethane over a fully cured Minwax Wood Finish Stain (oil-based). I have used it many times with zero issues. Repeated 4 times. First off, you do nit need to cut it with mineral spirits, just mix it well. PolyShades® is a one-step stain and polyurethane in one product. You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane (such as Minwax PolyShades). You can then wipe on different shades of stain to make your pattern. (practice on some similar wood first and let the wood dry thoroughly then sand or scrape smooth) Once you have the desired pattern, apply some clear finish to … Minwax PolyShades is a combination stain and polyurethane finish for wood. Minwax® PolyShades® to the rescue! Easiest way is to get some Circa 1850 stripper and some 80 grit sandpaper. Second, it does not spray well, and using a brush will create nasty bubbles and imperfections. Best to do this outside and wear stripping gloves, respirator and eye protection. Do you wipe off Minwax polyshades? I do this after the large areas are dry so I don’t smudge adjacent areas. You may be able to use some watered down bleach to lighten the wood some. When using Minwax PolyShades instead of a separate stain and varnish, you save time and effort as you protect and beautify your furniture or trim with a … It is recommended for interior wood surfaces such as furniture, molding, doors and cabinets. Re: removing Minwax polyshades Bob! I choose Pecan to match my cabinets. Polyshades is supposed to be applied in a couple of thin coats…and left to dry, sanding lightly between. I soak it on heavy and spread it out, then wipe off the excess. Then spray the poly. And when you scuff sand (with 320 grit) you will be taking some of the color off. After the roll-on coats are dry, I use Minwax wipe on poly (use the same sheen you chose for the roll-on poly) for the face frames, legs, doors or any other narrow, small or intricate areas. Then sanded using 600 grit and wipe down with tack cloth. You coat the project with the Polyshades and it does the color coat along with the top coat at the same time. For stains, you apply then wipe off excess. However, I think you'd still have to fight the "bleed-back" challenge because of the porosity of the red oak. I use cut up pieces of old t-shirts. To stain the conventional way, brush it on wipe it off, would leave no brush marks. To thin the Polyshades might dilute the color. Then applied 4 coats total of Minwax wipe on satin poly. Typically, I use the traditional two-step method: apply my stain, wiping off the excess liquid before it dries, then the next day apply a clear finish. Getting Started. 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